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Smuggler's Notch, April 4, 2013

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rockytop



Registered: November 2004
Location: Vermont
Posts: 298
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Blue Ice Bulge pillar was friendly and fun this morning!
· Date: Thu April 4, 2013 · Views: 1,316 ·
Rating: ******** 8.20
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Jacon

Registered: January 2009
Location: VT
Posts: 182
Thu April 4, 2013 1:47pm Rating: 10.00 



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Why didn't we get into yachting?
rockytop

Registered: November 2004
Location: Vermont
Posts: 298
Thu April 4, 2013 2:57pm

I have fun every time to return to this route. This was my first real lead on ice and over 25 years ago with straight-shaft tools and tied webbing leashes. I remember I was thinking how easy it looked from below as I went up with a partner who I had met the week before in the Notch and he was a well-known rock climber, so I assumed he was leading...because he's famous, right? Wrong! He told me at the top of easier ground below the route as we put in a screw belay that he didn't lead ice. Suddenly the route looked MUCH harder and steeper. I managed to send but I was scared sh**less. That was..of course, the beginning of the end. Hooked for life.
tfarr3

Registered: February 2008
Location: Jeffersonville, VT
Posts: 180
Thu April 4, 2013 6:42pm Rating: 10.00 

tradman

Registered: October 2004
Location: Pomfret, VT
Posts: 708
Fri April 5, 2013 2:36am Rating: 10.00 

Still have not found a grade 3 way up this puppy;)
Derby

Registered: December 2008
Location: Southern Vermont
Posts: 138
Fri April 5, 2013 3:05am Rating: 10.00 

I've seen lines on it that are grade 5ish. Yeah, there are a few routes in the notch that are usually a bit stout for their grade. Thinking Doug's Route. Norton Gibney pillar as well...
rockytop

Registered: November 2004
Location: Vermont
Posts: 298
Fri April 5, 2013 10:47am

Yeah Derby, the left side of BIB gets pretty burly sometimes. Norton-Gibney used to be easier and no harder than 4, even when thin, but it saw rockfall from the crux a few years back and has been quite a bit harder since.

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